Neil and Ian recently finished a filming trip to the highlands of Iceland, with particular focus on the area known as Landmannalaugar but also taking in many sights and sounds along the way.
Above is one of Neil’s (aka “MILKY” as he was affectionately named by one of our friends Maggi on the island of Grimsey) very nice photographs of the lava fields and mountains.
We started our highland trip from a beautiful waterfall called Aldeyjarfoss not too far from another famous waterfall Godafoss in the North of Iceland driving our trusty 4×4 along the rather bumpy dirt roads and tracks. If you are reading this and planning a trip through the central roads of Iceland it is well worth doing a lot of research. The roads are great fun to drive but you will need a decent wagon and it needs to be a solid 4×4, the bigger the better! it is easy to get stuck out there and if no one passes for a few hours and the weather turns which it will! it can be a long wait for passing help. Take plenty of supplies and be prepared. And remember to stay on the tracks and roads it is strictly forbidden to drive off road, the terrain and vegetation is extremely sensitive and does not recover for hundreds of years.
Above is milky’s photograph of Aldeyjarfoss as we arrived. It is a real beauty and a great place to stop and film and take in that dramatic landscape.
Iceland is a great place for landscape photography full stop, but it is also worth putting the camera down and soaking it all up! Whilst filming scenics we usually spend a good day or much longer at one location waiting for better light and moving about to get the best out of the situation. Sadly we are not as mobile as DSLR photographers, our filming kit is heavy and big and it takes time to get the best out of a situation. Spending all this time in one spot we are able to do a fair bit of tourist spotting! It is interesting to see how little time people actually spend having a sit down and taking it all in! Usually it is a quick pit stop, 150 photographs from one or two spots, a plethora of selfies all taken in record time then off like a rocket to the next recommendation in the guidebook! Perhaps it is due to time constraints or being on a tour of sorts, but it does seem a shame to not have a moment to contemplate, relax, and be in the nature, and we did spot a lot of people in hired 4x4s just turn up, take a look over the edge and leave. Neil and Ian could happily spend a week just here waiting for the best light to make her look even more beautiful. Good light is rare, and when it happens it is just magic. Most landscape photographers are always chasing the light, early light, late light, moody light, dramatic light. Sometimes it is best to just wait a little while longer it will pay off in the end and you will have a much better photograph for it and spent some time with your eyes and mind open and relaxed.
Large areas of the highlands are like a lunar landscape, something you would expect on a newly found keplar planet in a distant galaxy. As you leave the martian plains of the highlands things start to change, colours emerge from the black, and white landscape, reds and greens emerge, rivers are riddled with coloured veins of vegetation, moss, cotton grass and flowers start to show.
Along the journey to Landmannalaugar we helped a fair few people who had got stuck or had broken down. The Icelanders are a nation of people willing to help tourists and hikers, on countless occasions we have been helped by the really cool people of Iceland so we have a lot of respect for the Icelanders and the rescue teams.
We met a German couple travelling by motorbike who had flagged us down requesting help. The motorbike was stuck in the mud. Now when we say stuck, we mean seriously stuck, buried past the engine in thick black volcanic mud. It had been raining on and off all day so the ground was saturated and the rain was getting heavier, the couple had been in the rain for a good few hours desperately trying everything to get the bike free from the sinking mud, but the more efforts they had made the bike had sunk deeper. They were exhausted and cold wet and in need of a good old cuppa tea! We have pretty much everything in the Van to survive for weeks even months. We fired up the boilers and made tea and chocolate, a doctor once told me have a culpa tea and a bit of chocolate, you will feel much better! Sadly or van had no chance of pulling the bike from the mud, our van would just become stuck trying, so we waited and kept the guys warm till a super truck approached. Luckily it was a beast of a truck with very large tyres, even so it took 3 men and a super truck to pull that big old BMW out of that mud it just didn’t want to let it go! Some more tea and biscuits and we were on our way only to find a cyclist with a snapped bike and a glum face at not being able to finish his journey into the highlands, we chucked the bike in the back and took him to the campsite at Landmannalaugar.
Arguably one of the best locations to visit in Iceland, Landmannalaugar is a breathtaking landscape. Summer is a busy time in the area, a lot of people come to hike, camp and enjoy the landscape. So much to do and see, there are excellent trails, hikes and locations to visit. It is a national park and is simply beautiful. The lava fields are incredible, covered in moss hundreds of years old, ptarmigan hide out in the lava fields, wagtails, redwing and pink foot geese are to be found in the area.
The Landmannalagar area is not too far from the Bardarbunga volcano which has been all over the news for the last week. The volcano is situated in the northern part of mighty Vatnajokul the largest glacier in Europe. For more info on the seismic activities in Iceland you can check this link http://en.vedur.is/
We are aiming to head back to Iceland in a week or so to cover the horse round up and other spectacles so stay tuned for updates, and still to come a blog about the foxes at Hornstrandir and the ups and downs of filming wildlife.