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Eider, the duck that made a golden nest.

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Well, we’ve just spent the most enthralling couple of weeks filming Eider duck, their chicks and the age old tradition of collecting their down for your duvets, pillows and the very best of down jackets. These minute feathers are worth a small fortune, but their story and the people involved are where the riches are for us.

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 This down is without doubt the finest natural insulator you can find. Its the soft under layer of feathers from the breast of the female which she removes herself to line the nest. Microscopic barbs lock the feathers together, trapping millions of pockets of air, making it incredibly good for us humans. It was even used as insulation on early space missions, so you can see how it benefits the Eider during their long stays out on the Arctic ocean.

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Thor and his brother Bubbi, have been our hosts for the trip,  They are co owners of a small island near Flatey, just south of the Westfjords.

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It’s the most beautiful place, a sparkling archipelago of dozens of little  rocky outcrops and islets set in the cold clear Icelandic waters.

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Legend has it that it is impossible to count the islands here, the tides reveal more  and more rocks that could pass as islands at differing states, but one way used to define an island is whether birds nest on it, and here there are birds nesting galore.

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A quick list includes Red Phalarope, Black Guillemot, Redshank (sound recordists note – the noise from these guys is not popular when trying to record an interview!!), Arctic Tern, Ring necked Plover, Shelduck and of course the Eider, it was these guys we came to film as they built their nests and hatched their young.

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Eider and the traditional method of down collecting were one of the reasons we proposed making this film (it took nearly four years to get it off the ground!) it’s a very animal friendly way of using a natural resource and typical of Icelanders to find a way of working with nature not destroying it.

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The method is very simple really, you walk around your island, find a nesting eider (there are about 3000 on this island), gently lift out the eggs, remove the eider down lining the nest, replace with fresh hay and replace eggs, job done…

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(ed note, it also gave Andy the chance to try out a new hairdo, its been a long time since he had a full head of hair)

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But that’s where the hard work begins, theres a lot of ground to cover for a start, hopping on and off an inflatable dinghy to get to the smaller islets, carrying a sacks of hay and down around with you as you scramble over the rocks, is tiring work. Fortunately theres plentiful supplies of cocoa milk (a favourite with the families here) and a fantastic meal to look forward to at the end of the day (pepared by a very talented cook, how she manages to look after so many people is a mystery but she’s a star!)

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Once you’ve done your days collecting, the nests need to be cleaned, dried, cleaned again, dried more, cleaned and cleaned, mostly by hand. Then when they’ve removed as much of the dried grass, seaweed and bits as possible (you can only get 50% out at this stage) it goes off to the mainland to be cleaned of the rest, then sent to the specialist duvet manufacturer around the world (lots in Japan apparently)

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Worldwide production of Eider is only about 5 tonnes, 4 of those come from Iceland. When you think that it takes roughly 65 nests to get 1kg of finished material, you begin to see the numbers of birds involved.

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Its worth pointing out that this is totally harmless to the birds, they are not plucked of their down, they’ve done that themselves whilst building the nest., and research has shown no ill effects on the down being replaced with fresh hay. Its one of the few products where the animal it comes from will still be leading a life in the wild whilst you are using its product.

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Eider Duck – canon

The islands are incredibly well managed for all nesting birds, not just Eider, there are snipe, redshank, plover, puffin and black guillemot all over the place. Much is done to improve the numbers of Eider and all the other nesting birds for obvious reasons. Some of the nesting sites here have been used for hundreds of years, with birds returning to the same spot year after year.

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Escaped Mink (a non native predator introduced for the fur) play havoc on bird colonies if they can reach them, killing hundreds on their killing sprees.

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Not anymore though, they’ve now been eradicated here and all the bird species have recovered thanks to the round the clock vigil that Thor and the farmers take in protecting against foxes, black backed gulls and other predators.

Each year whilst collecting the down, its clear that some of the chicks wont make it on their own, either they are late in hatching and mum leaves the nest with the more fully grown ones, or mum has just laid too many eggs (they normally incubate 4, but can lay 6). So Thor and the family step in to give a helping hand. They hand raise dozens of chicks, incubating eggs to hatching, or rearing already hatched chicks, of course that’s where the fun comes in!

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Its been really good fun watching the chicks grow and learn how to survive on their own.

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they’ve proved to be willing helpers with the filming too…

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The children here (the Eider harvest is very much a family affair) adore them and are always a bit sad when one doesn’t make it, the inevitable circle of life.

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Its become a tradition over the years that all the ducklings are given a proper burial by the children, who pay their respects in time honoured fashion.

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But after a proper send off they are back busy with giving the chicks swimming lessons, helping to feed them and generally enjoy the experience of working with wild animals.

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In just a few short weeks, these ducklings will all leave the islands to their lives in the wild, the females hopefully returning to nest on the island.

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Not before they’ve had some tuition in how to find their food of course, The ducklings need to be shown how to grub around under stones to find shrimps and worms, Thor and the children are perfect surrogate mothers, spending precious time in these lessons. It’s a lovely sight seeing kids and a big hulk of a man on his hands and knees in the mud cooing to the chicks and hand feeding them shrimps.

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Once again on our trip through this brilliant country, we’ve been bowled over by the hospitality of the Icelandic people, and by the love and knowledge they have of their wildlife and wild places.

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Seeing how involved the kids have been in the whole process, collecting and cleaning the down, helping with the chicks, and not a moment of telly watching or playstation to distract them, has been a stark reminder of how we should be raising children too. Their respect and knowledge of the wildlife is amazing, its lovely to see the next generation being raised with that love of the wild, and they’ve made brilliant camera assistants too..

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So its with a huge thank you to Thor, Bubbi and everyone on the island, we take many fond memories with us, if not one of the ducklings!

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Theres more details of the whole process of Eider collecting here http://icelandeider.is.w7.x.is/?page_id=2347

Ian has now gone off to film the Arctic fox family we’ve been following up in the far northwest of Iceland, and we are heading east to catch up with those wonderful bars of silver that return to the rivers of Iceland each year to spawn….the king of fish in many peoples eyes, the Salmon.

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Sayonara

The Next Chapter…

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After a short interlude back home in the UK, we’re back on the road around Iceland this week! really looking forward to it. We’re going to be there all summer, and got some amazing things to cover.

Iceland will be heading into Spring when we get back there, the weather (hopefully!) will have become a bit warmer and life in this arctic paradise will be preparing for the incredible rush to bloom, breed and live life to full in the short summer months.

Two of our main characters, the Arctic Foxes and Eider Duck, will be giving birth to their cubs and chicks down on the coast, Puffins will be burrowing and the Icelandic Horses will be foaling and preparing for turn out to their summer pastures up in the stunning highlands in the interior of Iceland.

 

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First off on our trip (once we’ve picked up and packed the tour bus from our good friends and fixers at True North in Reykjavik) will be up to the Westfjords to catch up with the Eiders nest building, then up to a little island called Grimsey (which straddles the Arctic circle) for puffins and Guillemot, then back to Hornstrandir for our Arctic foxes.

Along the way, we’ll be spending lot of time (and filming) the wonderful people of Iceland who are so deeply involved with these animals and the land that surrounds them. It never ceases to amaze me how human resourcefulness and tenacity can carve out a living from what seems like a totally inhospitable, albeit beautiful, environment. Respect to you Icelanders!

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We’re really looking forward to spending some time focussing on the amazing scenery too. To be honest, Iceland has such stunning landscapes, it can be a little overwhelming to pick a shot, we’ll do a couple of posts that focus on landscape photography later on. And of course we will be posting the full breakdown of what exactly was in the 33 cases that we brought with us.

So stand by for more fun and games! We’ll be posting a lot with heaps of stills, stories and maybe the odd gull or two from Ian. We’d love it if you get in touch with messages here on the twitter and instagram feeds, and If you’re in Iceland and see a large grey Mercedes 4×4 van and 3 blokes looking confused and a little lost, stop and have a chat, we’ll even try and make you a cup of tea,

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see you on the road!

 

 

 

Heading down South

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Here are a few snippets from the journey down south today. The mighty Skogafoss gave us a rainbow welcome. only a short drive from the capital, well worth a look its a beautiful waterfall. The drive is easy and the scenery as you get close to falls area is stunning. beautiful farms nestled in old lava fields.

Seen lots of Whooper Swans arriving here in Iceland over the last few days, fields of geese are filling up. Its all going on!

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The inside of Selandjafoss waterfall. Prepared to get a touch wet at this dreamy little waterfall. Its a good stop of on the journey. Take a lens cloth!

In other news Andy has been inducted into the way of the HotDog! Doubling up on the first try! Good lad.

Heading towards the Magnificent and biggest glacier in Europe over the next few days! VATNAJOKULL It needs those capitals its a beast! Very exciting. Tonight we are not very far from the Volcano Katla………….A true sleeping giant. Google it.

Take care till the next time 🙂

Waiting Game

We are stuck in Holmavik, due to bad weather and road closures. We will eventually get to Isafjodur then via boat to the film the beautiful arctic Fox but for the time being it is a bit of a waiting game. Luckily for us there is a witchcraft and sorcery museum to visit to keep us busy and up to date with that side of things. We are staying in a guest house which has a big selection of Icelandic romantic novels to read which Neil is really happy about. So all in all not too bad! Sadly it is way to windy to film anything. We are joined in the guest house by an American couple who had to be rescued from a car yesterday when it became stuck in bad weather. The rescue/response teams out here are great, and they had nothing but praise and kind words about the Icelanders who helped them out and back to safety. In the harbour a small raft of 20 male and female common Eider, effortlessly ride out the huge gusts of icy wind, a hardy and lovely bird, which we will be filming later in the year.

Thats it for now.

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Hotdog days

Its been a funny old day today. Weather a bit dull for filming so, we sat in the van eating hotdogs. Counting down the days to when Andy the boss gets here and does his share of carrying that flipping O’connor tripod head.

We are leaving the Myvatn area and starting to head up towards Isafjordur. If you are planning a trip to Iceland, we would recommend a trip up here, its stunning and everyone has been great. Things to look lout for! Kraftla power station is really cool, Myvatn lakes are stunning, even when frozen, beautiful flocks of snow bunting around most farms (photo below), a few rare ducks, and the hardy old Viking Horse at every farm. The air is so, so fresh and the views when the sun shines are beautiful and the patterns and details in the landscape are brilliant.

Sorry, we digress! back to the d o g s

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The best hot dog award so far with out a shadow of a doubt goes to the very nice lady at the Cafe near Godafoss waterfall in North Iceland.

We ate 4. In about 2 minutes. She makes a fine HD! 

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If you are passing then pop in a grab one with crispy onions and then sit and watch the wondrous waterfall next door.

Ian has eaten some odd things in the past on his various filming trips around the world. However his diet on this trip is a bizarre mix of very high energy jelly beans, coffee, massive calorific freeze dried food packs and these odd jelly lumps and lots of hotdogs. He’s gone a bit mental. I won’t post a photo of his face for fear of upsetting any regular readers so instead here are some of the those plucky little Snow Buntings. 330B9247

Neil, went off to the hot springs yesterday and left Ian to do all the hard work again. However fate delivers a even hand! whilst Neil was out pampering his delicate soft skin, Ian who was working away, bumped into a lovely couple from Taiwan who are touring Iceland for a few weeks. They invited Ian for some food. A beautiful spicy noodle soup on a cold evening was just what was needed for that bearded old thing.

When poor Neil arrived back from his pampering session and moaned about  cooking up a freeze dried ready meal and asked if he would like one?

Ian pointed to the empty bowl with a big smile. Neil’s face was a picture!

Listen to us! like the hairy bikers, banging on about food and such stuff. Here is a quick i phone clipsy of Godafoss as we past today.

In other news! Neil got the F-ing dongle to work after weeks of Ian hitting it against his head and throwing it out the window. It works……

Other stuff. A wildlife Camera legend is out in Iceland at the moment. Mr Warwick Sloss……One of the greats and a bloody good chap.

He is out with a very nice film stills camera to photograph Iceland in his own unique way. Here is his website  to paste in your browser http://www.slossphoto.co.uk

The photo of a handsome man with a moustache is actually Ian, before he went feral. Check out Warwick’s stuff its proper lush.

 

Cheers look.

So far. So, ok?

_MG_2280We like Iceland. Everyone is very calm, nothing’s a problem, its all cool and the gang. The roads are covered in snow. So what! Get the tractor out and clear it, or drive as fast as you can and plough your way into it. Or wait a day for the snow ploughs to clear the way. As Raggy said to us this week (we are Kipping at his hotel in Myvatn) We just get on with it.

Raggy took Neil and Ian out the other day to a filming location. We needed a super truck to get us through the snow and he has one of those massive 4x4s with enormous tyres. So off we went, about an hour or so, into the journey we saw a Volvo stuck in a drift. Raggy laughed and said it was the ring road inspector, he checks the conditions of road one which circles the island. The conditions up North have been interesting. Even the locals have said there has been a lot more snow than usual. Raggy towed the volvo out the drift and off we all went.

One of the many good things about Iceland is that it is so tuned into technology and nature, the websites for travel, seismological data, avalanche warnings, road closures, weather, etc, etc are brilliant. So long as you can get a Dongle to work ******* thing.

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We are always amazed by other countries weather. The weather in North Iceland has been so changeable, bright blue sky, to freezing wind which instantly freezes any moisture on the cameras and our hands! Then it will just go white out, snow and sky become a sheet of a4 paper. Beautiful. Clouds and fog roll in and change the view within minutes. It is certainly unpredictable.

Lots of tourists at Myvatn today. Its funny watching bus loads of people get out and look at the boiling, bubbling mud and steam take a photo and get back in the bus. Perhaps its the smell of sulphur or they are just not that impressed. Either way they don’t seem to appreciate the detail! We do. We could and did spend hours filming the steam and mud. Happy as pigs in…

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Ian seems to like the smell of rotten egg

Those that stayed on the bus missed a stunning display, if only they opened their eyes for a few seconds more. One tourist had a purple full length fur coat on. But at least for all his fashion faux par he did spend ages taking snaps of mud! Good on him…..

Anyway thats roughly it today apart from to say the macaroni cheese survival food is really quite tasty! The spicy beef rice however is to be avoided at all costs. Ian suffered the consequences, lets put it that way.

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